Happy Trails

It is a beautiful winter and the Great Western Catskills are glistening with fresh snow. That means it’s time to gather up the friends and family for a weekend to refresh and recharge in the crisp winter air.  Fun and adventure are waiting on the slopes or the trails and with stay and play packages, cozy lodging and wonderful dining you don’t need and excuse to get away from it all.

Catskill Scenic Trail

While the age of train rides from New York to the Catskills has been eclipsed by buses and cars the romance of the rails is not lost, just updated! The Catskill Scenic Trail, the rail path of the former Ulster & Delaware Railroad has been reincarnated in a companion project with the Delaware & Ulster scenic rail-ride. This four season trail boasts 26 miles of hard-packed base that meanders through hill and dale from Roxbury to Bloomville and several towns in between.  A hike through the fresh snow and crisp winter air is the natures cure for shaking off the post-holiday doldrums. Even better, glide from town to town on cross country skis. Check out their website for a trail map at http://catskillscenictrail.org/.

Fueling Up

Start your adventure on the Catskill Scenic Trail off right with breakfast. Staying close to Margaretville? Try the amazing breakfast offerings at the Arkville Bread and Breakfast. They offer everything from eggs over easy to airy waffles and sausage.  In Roxbury, stop in at the  East Branch Cafe where you can  fuel up with a pile of warm and fluffy pancakes with local maple syrup and a steaming cup of fresh, hot coffee.  Hit the trail and hike on down the line for lunch at the Creekside Café where homemade soups and fresh, warm made-to-order sandwiches await hungry hikers.  As the sun sets over the beautiful mountains dinner beckons.  Spice it up with enchiladas and rice and beans at La Cabana in Fleischmanns or savory, home-cooked Italian at Mama Maria’s in Stamford. No matter what you are craving there is a restaurant to satisfy those hungry taste buds.

Recharging

A day out in the fresh air means a good night sleep.  Many of the local hotels and bed and breakfasts offer stay and play packages that meet every need. The historic  River Run Bed and Breakfast in Fleischmanns offers a “Taste of the Catskills” stay and play package with breakfast each morning and a special 5 course tasting dinner at the Andes Hotel with a two-night stay. Check into the conveniently located Margaretville Motel and enjoy free lift tickets for either Belleayre or Plattekill Mountains.

Balsam Lake Mountain

Two reasons why Balsam Lake Mountain is one of the most popular hikes in the Western Catskills are that it’s the farthest west of the Catskills’ 35 high peaks and it has a fire tower on its summit. And of course there are many other reasons drawing hikers to this 3723’ summit. There are three approaches to choose from when hiking the mountain, each of varying distances and each involving a different scenic drive to reach the trailhead. Two of the trails have lean-tos, two of them follow an abandoned road that was once a thoroughfare over the mountains, and one circles the shore of a lake. And no matter which route is chosen, the mountaintop, with its dense and pungent balsam thicket, creates a special environment that is encountered only in certain locations.

The fire tower at the summit of Balsam Lake Mountain.

A common route to the trailhead begins at Route 28 and Dry Brook Road in Arkville. Take Dry Brook Road six miles (enjoying the drive up this scenic valley), then turn right onto Millbrook Road; after a two-mile uphill drive, turn right at the crest of the hill into the adjacent Dry Brook Ridge Trail Parking Area. The trail to the fire tower is on the opposite side of the road from the parking area. Following the old roadbed, the trail’s gradient is reasonable by Catskill standards, and the width makes it easier to converse with companions. At 2.2 miles the marked junction points hikers up the red trail to the right, which climbs a steeper old road and reaches the fire tower in another three-fourths of a mile. Although the tower was last used for fire surveillance in the late 1980s it has been restored, and the cabin can often be accessed on weekends from Memorial Day through Labor Day due to the efforts of volunteers. But even without access to the cabin, the 360-degree view that unfolds while climbing the tower is amazing.

A shorter route to the summit begins at the Quaker Clearing Trailhead, which is reached after an 8.5 mile drive up the Beaverkill Road from its junction with the Barkaboom Road (just south of Big Pond). This junction is reached from the bridge at NYS Route 30 and the Pepacton Reservoir by travelling east along the NYC BWS Road 1.9 miles, then continuing along Barkaboom Road another 6.2 miles. The first two miles of the hike are gradual (along the southern portion of the blue-marked Dry Brook Ridge Trail) until the junction with the red-marked trail to the tower is reached. Turning left, the ascent is abrupt but the summit is reached in under a mile. Just below the 3500’ mark, a spur trail leads to a lean-to that is tucked in a thickly wooded area. With 1200’ in elevation gain and less than six miles round trip, this hike is done by families and hikers of all ages who are prepared and in good shape.

The third approach to Balsam Lake Mountain is from Alder Lake (reached by turning from the Beaverkill Road onto Alder Lake Road and going 2.25 miles to the base of Cross Mountain Road [a rugged seasonal road connecting to Mill Brook Road], then making a right into the entrance to Alder Lake). From the parking area, the summit of Balsam Lake Mountain is about 7 miles. This distance -- along with the primitive campsites around Alder Lake and the Beaver Meadow Lean-to (1.5 miles east of Alder Lake) -- present some fine backpacking opportunities along the secluded Mill Brook Ridge Trail. As always, hikers and backpackers should be properly prepared with a map, water, food, and all other necessary equipment and provisions.

Lennox Memorial Forest

Back in the 1927 John Lennox became the first director of Camp Shankitunk, which is now the oldest continuously operating 4-H camp in New York State. Sixty years later, upon his passing, Lennox’ intention to preserve his adjacent 144-acre estate as an outdoor classroom for future generations began to take shape. 

Opened in 1998, the Lennox Memorial Forest became the first operational model forest in the New York City Watershed Model Forest Program and continues to serve a range of educational purposes. Located directly across from Camp Shankitunk on Arbor Hill Road in Delhi, the Forest property encompasses much of the adjacent mountainside and reaches above 2000’ in elevation, some 700’ above the nearby West Branch of the Delaware River. (PLEASE NOTE: Visitors may access the property’s entry area where there is an information kiosk; however, those wishing to access the interior of Lenox Memorial Forest must contact Cornell Cooperative Extension of Delaware County at (607) 865-6531.)

A prominent sign for the Forest is found 2.65 miles from Route 28 on Arbor Hill Road. The kiosk’s panels set the Forest in the larger context of the NYC Watershed and provide specifics on the sustainable forestry practices used on the property. Beyond the gate, the main path climbs steadily, passing Turtle Rock and Monkey Face Rock. Keeping to the left at the first junction will bring the hiker sharply uphill through a tall stand of hemlocks and impressive rock outcroppings. This section exhibits much of the essence of a Catskill Mountain hike, and it helps one appreciate the public access afforded by Lennox Forest. 

Once above the hemlocks, the trail curls to the south and eventually levels. A short foot trail leads to the west and quickly reaches a lean-to and a grand overlook. This area is used by 4-H campers, who learn outdoor skills on overnight trips during the six weeks of summer when the camp is in operation. (When the camp is not in session, permission to hike on Camp Shankitunk property -- between Arbor Hill Road and the Delaware River -- may also be granted.)

The major trails in the Forest are actually roads that are used primarily for forestry management purposes, and several of these are connecting loops. An alternate ascent to the top of the property is found by staying to the right at the first junction beyond the entry gate and climbing the long switchback road. These roads are illustrated on the both the Forest Management Plan and Map, found at: http://www.ccedelaware.org/4h-youth development/JohnLennoxMemorialForest.aspx

The plan shows the many types of management blocks and their related practices that the roads pass through. With this plan in hand, the walker will get a sense of the sustainable forestry techniques along the way, some of which are explained in more detail at the kiosk. 

To learn even more about the Forest, visitors can participate in the periodic workshops and tours that are offered. Event schedules and additional information can be obtained when contacting Cornell Cooperative Extension. 

The Catskill Scenic Trail - One of Delaware County's Greatest Treasures

The Catskill Scenic Trail (CST) is one of Delaware County’s greatest treasures. This 25-mile linear park follows the old Ulster and Delaware Railroad bed and stretches from Bloomville to Roxbury through some of the most beautiful country in all of New York State. The near-level gradient and unpaved surface make it ideal for hikers, walkers and families, as well as runners, cyclists, cross country skiers and horseback riders. There are numerous places to access the trail which passes through South Kortright, Hobart, Stamford and Grand Gorge. Maps and information are available at www.catskillscenictrail.org.

The Catskill Scenic Trail is 25 miles of old Ulster and Delaware Railroad bed that stretches from Bloomville to Roxbury through some of the most beautiful country in all of New York State.

In Bloomville (eight miles north of Delhi on Route 10) the trail begins about a quarter mile east of the intersection of River Street and NYS Route 10 on the south side of Route 10. There is a pedestrian crossing sign in the eastbound lane, a Catskill Scenic Trail mile marker, and a small parking lot. Before getting started, one can glance across Route 10 and see how this is the point where the railroad diverged from the valley of the Delaware River’s West Branch on its way to Oneonta; however, this Bloomville-Oneonta section of the abandoned railroad is not open to the public.

The first section of the trail is a shady and subtle descent that passes the old Sheffield Farms operation, site of the country’s first milk pasteurization. The traveler will also notice the first in a series of trailside benches installed by the Catskill Revitalization Corporation, who oversees the trail and keeps it in good repair. Occasionally, old stone pillar mile-markers appear, displaying the distance to Kingston. Soon the trail separates from Route 10 and enters the pastoral scenery of the Delaware River’s West Branch Valley. The trail then runs alongside the river and crosses it three times in the next mile. In the spring the wildflowers in these floodplains are brilliant, and wildlife abounds. This section also offers superb mountain vistas as it traverses a series of active farm fields, before reaching South Kortright and the first road junction at 4.5 miles.

The trail skirts behind the hamlet offering an assortment of glimpses into yesteryear, including an old rail depot. It then crosses County Route 18 a second time and bends north with fine views down the valley. At 8.5 miles the trail pulls into Hobart – the Book Village of the Catskills, then it’s a straight shot through mostly farmland to the village of Stamford. Both Stamford and Hobart offer places for the traveler to get refreshments. Stamford marks the halfway point of the trail, which crosses Route 23 on the eastern edge of the downtown area (small octagonal yellow, blue, and white markers are located at all intersections).

Leaving Stamford, the trail also leaves the West Branch Valley and parallels the Mooresville Mountain Range on the eight-mile stretch to Grand Gorge. (Early on there are connecting trails on the left that lead to the Headwaters Trails system.) Along this stretch, the traveler will pass lakes, wetlands, farms, historic barns, and the old South Gilboa Depot. Numerous road crossings serve as convenient access points. A mile or so west of Grand Gorge the trail is bisected by NYS Route 23. On the opposite side of the road the trail continues bends south of the hamlet, and there are some unfinished but easily passable wooded sections. There’s also a unique section that’s cut through a mountain with slopes on both sides. The trail crosses NYS Route 30 just south of the hamlet. At this point (behind Becker’s Tire), the trail can be wet and the traveler may consider the access point just to the south off Route 30.

Now paralleling the headwaters of the East Branch of the Delaware, the scenic trail runs alongside several cliffs and gradually descends as the river widens. The surrounding mountains are generally higher than those along the West Branch, although the valley is narrower and the road is closer at hand. Before culminating just north of the hamlet of Roxbury at Hubbells Corner, the trail ascends a grassy slope next to Route 30. Across the road, the railroad tracks are still in place, and the Delaware and Ulster Railroad is in operation from Roxbury to Arkville, May – October. Summing up, the Catskill Scenic Trail runs 25 miles through two spectacular river valleys, has minimal elevation change throughout its entire course, offers numerous access points, and therefore is a convenient attraction for casual recreationists to enjoy the beauty of Delaware County.

Views and Wild Azalea on Dry Brook Ridge

At 3460’ in elevation and lying west of the Catskills’ high peaks (summits above 3500’), Dry Brook Ridge is a less frequented and rewarding mountain to visit. There are several approaches to this long ridge, including the Dry Brook Ridge Trail which runs 9.6 miles from the village of Margaretville to the Millbrook Road Parking Area (and another 4 miles to Quaker Clearing in the Beaverkill Valley). Along the way, there are intersections with the German Hollow Trail (a 1.65-mile trail climbing from the east); the Huckleberry Loop Trail, which reaches Hill Road to the west in 2.3 miles; and again the Huckleberry Loop Trail Valley which connects with Ploutz Road in 1.5 miles. All of these trails are shown on the Central Catskills Trails Map (# 142) which is published by the New York-New Jersey Trail Conference. It is recommended that hikers obtain this map, which shows the many ‘point-to-point’ and advanced hiking possibilities found in this area.

Near the center of the ridge and near its highest point are a series of ledges that offer westerly views. A good way to reach these ledges (also known as Penguin Rocks) is from the Ploutz Road Parking Area. Ploutz Road is reached by taking the Millbrook Road 6.7 miles from the Pepacton Reservoir. After turning left, proceed just over a mile, passing the farmhouse, until the parking area on the right. At first, the trail ascends through a mature spruce forest, then it passes through some rocky sections before coming to the DBR Trail after a climb of about 1000’. Turning left, the trail moves through an open swampy area and semi-stunted ridgetop forests until the first overlook is reached in about a mile. This is a good place for a break while you take in the view and decide if you would like to continue about three-quarters of a mile to the next major overlook. Each of these overlooks is denoted by a star symbol on the trail map. If you turn around at this second viewpoint the hike is about six miles roundtrip.

There have been two lean-tos adjacent to this 9.6 miles section of the DBR until a few years ago when the German Hollow Lean-to was crushed by trees during a storm. It is still slated for reconstruction, although it may be relocated. The second lean-to is located 1.35 miles from Mill Brook Road, which makes for a convenient “out-and-back” overnight trip or a welcomed shelter if you’re on a longer journey. (Note his lean-to is located near private land and access to the spring shown on the map is limited.) 

The large tracts of wild forest along the ridge make for excellent wildlife habitat, and the ridge is known for its bear and bobcat. In the spring, the ‘Pinkster’ bush, a type of wild azalea, blooms in abundance along the higher, central part of the trail. Although many hikers opt for the 9.6-mile through hike, each of the trailheads offer secluded climbs to the ridge. To reach the trail from Margaretville, turn onto Southside Road from Route 28 (across from Fair Street), go to the top of the hill and turn left; the trailhead will be on your right in a short distance.

Winter, inside and out

Catskill Scenic Trail

I popped into Lucky Dog Farm Store to pick up a sandwich for lunch the other day and met a retired couple that  I had hiked with a few years back.  Lucky for me his memory was better than mine! We had a great chat about hiking in the Catskills and about how some folks absolute LOVE for the winter season.  His body loves cold weather and is uncomfortable in the heat of the summer. I asked if he meant the heat of the summer here and laughed when he said yes.  I find summers incredibly delightful, blissfully cool in the evenings. But I did agree with him on winter. After ten years of being here full time, I have finally found the winter cold enjoyable as well.  Go figure.

What makes someone a winter person?  I'm not sure if my metabolism changed to work better in the cold or if it was more the clothes and tools!!!  Now that we have heat packs for our boots and gloves, high tech super-wicking fabric for long johns, polar fleece, balaclava's, heated handles and seats on snowmobiles and in cars, 4 wheel drive, uber-insulated boots,  there's almost nothing to worry about!!

But if you're looking for things that don't require layers of clothing, yet do provide an inside space - there are lots of fun and healthy things going on during the cold months. 

SUNY Delhi opens their aquatic center, and the mini-dome, which houses their fitness center and tennis courts, to the public during the year.  The hours can vary depending on when school is in session and student related activites - but the facilities are wonderful and a great way to work-out indoors over the winter.

The Roxbury Arts Group holds classes from Yoga to Dance throughout the winter.  Check in with them to see if anything is up and coming.  You may think the West Kortright Centre shuts down during the winter but not so..... They hold workshops too just in other locations. Check into their upcoming book binding workshop.

There are a plethora of local yoga instructors holding classes in churches or community centers - but we're at a loss for an online resource to give you. This is a word of mouth - flyer on the window of a local business - source of information, so ask around.

One of the unknown gems of the winter is the Honest Brook Music Festival's winter series.  Their once a month concerts take place in private homes so you are guaranteed an intimate environment in which to hear wonderful classical music.  

While I used to spend the winter hunkered down and safe from storms - having a great attitude about getting out and about and taking advantage of everything that local business owners and organizations do to keep us entertained and fit really does pay off in fun times and great memories.  Try some out for yourself and comment here on the results!!

 

Lake Effect Snows Providing Great Backdrop for Winter Fun in the Western Catskills

The Western side of the Catskills is the first mountain range east of the Rockies that gets hit with weather systems as they cross the plains.  Not only that the Great Lakes provide just the right conditions to bring storm systems that pack a precipitation punch to the upstate region.  This translates into lots of fresh powder at area ski slopes, like Plattekill Mountain in Roxbury, NY. In last years whopper of a storm, Plattekill was tapped by the National Weather Service as receiving the most snowfall of the storm – almost 9 feet!!

Plattekill maintains its charm as a challenging mountain that is incredibly family friendly.  Double black diamond runs thrill expert skiers.  The ski school offers great instruction, a bunny hill and two side trails for easier runs.   Plattekill is open Friday-Sunday from 8:45 a.m.-4:15 p.m. Plattekill will be open for ten days straight for school break starting with the Presidents’ Weekend holiday.  Saturday nights are especially exciting with snow tubing available in two sessions, from 5-7 and 7-9 p.m. Holiday week will have additional tubing nights as well.  Check the conditions live with their mountain cam at www.plattekill.com.  New to the mountain this year is a boatload of infrastructure improvements. 

  Keeping Plattekill’s trails in peak condition is a constant effort. The mountain has almost 100 snow guns, 7,000 feet of buried snowmaking pipe, 1,000 feet of heavy electric wire (and nine electric stations) to power 2 new fan guns, a grooming machine, and new rental equipment.  A great way to understand just what it takes to get, make, and keep snow can be found on a new winter blog that features mostly Plattekill but also other winter activities in the region.  http://winterinthecatskills.blogspot.com   This blog has a little of everything from links to local teenagers terrain park videos, interviews with the snow making and grooming staff, as well as ice fishing and local village round-ups.

A number of nearby lodging facilities have partnered with Plattekill Mountain to offer money-saving packages. The most popular offering is one of their two BOGO (Buy One Get One) options. When visitors stay with a participating lodging facility, children 17 and under will receive one free lift ticket for each paid adult ticket (limit two).  Adults without children can save big too. Buy a full day lift ticket for Saturday and get Sunday’s lift ticket free.  The mountain boasts a great family cafeteria, upstairs lounge bar, child care center, fireplaces throughout and sunning benches on the deck.

If your winter adventure tastes are more leisurely, Delaware County has many fine cross-country skiing and snowshoeing options. The ideal cross-country or snowshoe route is the 26-mile rail bed known as the Catskill Scenic Trail running between Roxbury and Bloomville.  Use of the trail is free. For additional information on the rail trail, visit www.catskillscenictrail.org. All this activity is in Roxbury which boasts the award winning boutique motel, The Roxbury - check out their theme rooms at www.theroxburymotel.com. 

The Great Western Catskills Facebook page now includes a Photo of the Day section so you can remember just for real how much is on the ground, and be inspired to plan a visit. When it comes to lodging options, the Great Western Catskills features accommodations that include everything from cool and hip inns, charming bed and breakfasts, affordable and accommodating motels to private rental homes complete with fireplace and firewood. For winter lodging packages visit the getaways section of the area’s travel website at: www.greatwesterncatskills.com.

Learn more about the Western Catskills

Delaware County is located conveniently to the NYC / Albany / Rochester / Philadelphia areas for weekend getaway. For more information on travel to the Great Western Catskills visit www.greatwesterncatskills.com. For a free activity guides, art gallery and antique shop map, fishing map or event calendar, call 866-775-4425.